Saturday, July 17, 2010

Whitby


Greetings from Whitby! Whitby is a Yorkshire town on the northeastern coast of England, about an hour (2 by bus) north of York. Modern Whitby is a bustling tourist town, but also supports an active fishing fleet. And you know what that means? The best fish and chips in the country. Seriously.


I'd suggest the Magpie, above, for some really excellent fish and chips, but there are any number of good places serving the fresh fish practically right off the boat. FYI, the Magpie has a take away window and the lines can get pretty darn long. But trying going inside to their sit down restaurant- you can usually just walk right in and be seated. The Magpie's not the cheapest option, but it is delicious and you can have your choice of several types of fish, or try one of their other non fish & chips options.


Whitby Abbey is one of the main attractions in Whitby. The town itself came to exist as a result of the abbey, which was founded in 656 by the king of Northumbria. St Hild/Hilda served as the first abbess over a double monastery (meaning it had both monks and nuns) and she played an active role in the conversion of the Anglo-Saxons to Christianity in this part of England during the 7th century. The abbey is best known as the site of the Synod of Whitby held in 664; it was at this meeting that the King of Northumbria decided that the Christian liturgical calendar in Northumbria would follow Rome's traditions of calculating Easter, rather than the Celtic traditions practiced at Iona, a major monastery in Scotland founded by Irish missionaries. This sounds silly, but it was actually a big deal at the time; both sides of the debate firmly believed their version of Christianity was superior/more correct, and the decision at Whitby spelled the doom of the Celtic version of Christianity for much of what we now call England. The abbey was destroyed by the Vikings in the 9th century, and the current ruins are what is left of the refounded monastery built in the late 11th century.


Of course, they can't make it easy to access the monastery. If you want to visit, you'll first have to climb up 199 steps and then it'll cost you 5 pounds to get in. But the steps aren't that bad, and you can get some really nice shots of the town from the stairs.


Whitby is also known for an important literary connection. Part of Bram Stoker's Dracula is set in Whitby. He used to summer in Whitby and contemplate the ruins of the abbey; in the book, Dracula arrives by ship, runs up the stairs, and hides out in the ruins. During the 1700s, Captain Cook lived in Whitby. The Captain was best known for his surveys and maps of the St Lawrence River and Newfoundland and for being the first European to sail to the east coast of Australia and Hawaii.

History lesson aside, Whitby is a really fun little seaside resort town. The harbor front has some rides and games, while the town itself is full of fun shops. You can tell it is a tourist town by the presence of ice cream _everywhere_. Whitby is an easy day trip from York, and if you are willing to rush things like we were, can be combined with a trip on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. But more on that later :)

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